[English version below]
Dia 21/10, travessem la frontera i ja estem al nord-est de Grècia. La veritat que estem més prop d'anar cap a Turquia que Atenes, els dubtes ens invadeixen però decidim deixar Turquia pel Gener. Per la carretera ens trobem camps de cotó que la tenyeixen tot de blanc i de borrissol. Dormim al costat del Llac Porto Lagos on hi han flamencs, una bona sorpresa abans de fer la becaina. L'endemà al matí, la pluja ens desperta i emprenem camí escapant d'ella. Mentrestant anem seguint la ruta, Oliver veu un cartell que anuncia Banys termals i els ulls se li posen com taronges acompanyant d’un gran somriure! Així que ja sé quin serà el pla següent. Una vegada al recinte mig abandonat, veiem una caseta que sembla la taquilla. En surt una dona, i nosaltres una mica rucs, volem pagar en targeta perquè no tenim euros. Ens diu que cap problema i que és un regal, Grècia és fantàstic! I el truc de no portar euros potser el farem més sovint (no era un truc, no en teníem).
Els banys termals són molt bàsics per la gent del poble i separats per sexes. Entro al bany termal amb banyador (no val despullar-se), i una dona d’uns 60 anys ha tingut visita. Em fa unes senyes i em diu alguna cosa però no ens entenem, al final a la desesperada m’ensenya un rellotge i m’adverteix que només pots estar 30 min, li donc les gràcies pel consell. La recepcionista entra un parell de vegades preguntar-me si tot està bé. Aconsegueixo relaxar-me després de tanta "atenció" mentre em pregunto quina serà la història de l’Oliver. Després de 30 minuts neta i calenta, i Oliver emocionat marxem donant les moltíssimes gràcies.
Anem rodejant la costa est direcció cap a Thessaloniki (primera ciutat més important després de la capital), i ens recorda la carretera de Sant Pol amb els penya-segats i la platja a SOTA, i anar saltant de poble en poble. Travessem un poble, Kavala on hi ha un aqüeducte Turc del segle XIV, que recorda el de Segòvia. Si al final sempre hi ha alguna cosa que et recorda al "Maresme sur mer", a casa.
Plou i fa boira i després d’un dia llarg conduint anem a petar al Museu Arqueològic de Amfipolis, i com que ja és de nit no tenim cap més remei per passar la nit, però tenim una visita inesperada, la policia! En veure-la a venir, amaguem els “extres” ;), i l’Oliver es posa a tocar la guitarra. Ens demanen els passaports i ens fan preguntes en grec, però com que no entenem res la desesperació els fa marxar, una altra bona tècnica.
I l'endemà ens llevem amb força per anar a descobrir el Mont Athos (Muntanyes a la costa rodejades de Monestirs Ortodoxes on hi habiten els monjos). I quan arribem a la “frontera” ens adonem que només els homes tenen permís per anar a veure els monestirs i que s’hi ha d’anar o bé en barca o bé demanar un permís per quedar-s’hi a dormir i els monjos et vénen a buscar per carretera. M'he "cagon" amb la religió i el que no sona. Així que no ens queda cap més remei que anar cap a Thessaloniki.
I ja estem parlant del dia 24/10 quan arribem a Thessaloniki. És una ciutat amb cultura, divertida i color juntament amb símbols que reflecteixen la història gloriosa que un dia va tenir la ciutat. Incloent la Torre Blanca on al voltant hi ha ple de cafès al waterfront (a primera línia de mar), estructures o edificis Otomanes, ruïnes llegendàries Bizantines que culminen el barri més alt de la ciutat amb cases de colors, carrers estrets de pujades i baixades, una fortalesa i esglésies Bizantines. També no ens podíem deixar les ruïnes Romanes i les ruïnes del palau de l'emperador Galerius al segle III.
I per la part menys històrica, la ciutat està repleta de bars interessants i per descobrir, mercats amb color i olors d'espècies, fruits secs… productes frescos que els venen a peu de carrer (té un aire als mercats d'Istanbul). Però la ciutat té un problema, no respecta els vianants i cada vegada que has de travessar és una odissea. En una de les esglésies que visitem, ens trobem un monjo simpàtic que ens pregunta les típiques preguntes de cortesia fins que toca el terreny infernal, la religió. Ens pregunta amb delicadesa si som cristians i la resposta d’ateismes el sorprèn i amb una rialleta ens diu que anirem a l’ínfer, quina il·lusió.
Seguidament de la descoberta de Thessaloniki ens perdem pels camins de muntanya, vorejant el Mont Olympus (2918 m), la muntanya més alta de Grècia… Fem nit a un terreny de bestiar on hi ha un bevedor, que el matí següent servirà per netejar tots els catxarros materials i humans.
Les muntanyes ens porten a l’oracle de Delphi. A uns 2000 metres i en un dia solejat i clar pots arribar a veure la continuïtat de Grècia, el Peloponès. L’oracle està situat entre dues muntanyes rocoses que no veus el fi, a la vall la catifa d’olivers i l’horitzó el mar, amb aquest paisatge l’únic que es pot respirar és tranquil·litat i pau.
L’Oracle fou un santuari sagrat dedicat principalment al déu Apol.lo al qual acudien els grecs per preguntar als déus sobre qüestions que els inquietaven i els hi regalaven ofrenes.
Deixem aquesta bellesa i el sol es pon, no tenim cap més remei que parar al poble primer que veiem, Argio Spiridion. Una vila de 10 cases literalment al costat del mar. El camí de la vila fa vorera amb un mar transparent i quan aquest deu està revolucionat l’ona deu petar a les rodes del cotxe, sense cap mena de protecció, deu ser un mar molt calmat el de la zona. Aquella nit necessito donar notícies a casa i entro a l’únic cafè obert. Obro la porta i em creuo amb les mirades i la cara de sorpresa dels habitants, un foraster.
A les 7 del matí el ding dong de les campanes i a les 9 una altra vegada, homes i dones de negre desfilen cap a missa. Deixem l'acte religiós i creuem els 5 minuts de pont penjant nou (tiquet 13,20e) per travessar cap a la península del Peloponès. Gaudim el màxim la vista, perquè el preu no s’hi val.
English version
On 21/10 we cross
the border and arrive in northeastern Greece. We are a lot closer to Istanbul
than to Athens, and we wonder about itfor a while but decide to leave Turkey until
after Christmas. We drive pastcotton fields where all the surrounding fences
and trees are covered in white fluff. We sleep beside Lake Porto Lagos where
there were hundreds of flamingos, a pleasant view before bedtime. The next
morning we were woken by the rainand get going in an attempt to outrun it.
Meanwhile Oliver sees a sign for thermal baths and his eyes light up and a big
grin appears on his face.So I knew what was coming next.We arrived at some half
abandoned looking buildings, and found a small construction that looked like a
ticket office. Out came a woman who greets us and tells us the price -but we
have come unprepard and don’t yet have any Euros. We ask if we can pay by card
but it seems unlikely in this ramshackle place. No, but no problem, it is a
gift, she says, Greece is fantastic! Perhaps we should carry local currency
less often!
The thermal baths are very basic and provided for the local villagers. They are separated into mens and womens baths. I go to the thermal bath with my bathing suit on (no nudity, we are strictly told!) to find a 60 year old woman in there. On realising I am not Greek she makes hand signals for a whie but I don’t understand. Although after showing me a clock it becomes clear that she means that there is a 30 minute time limit. The receptionist comes in a few times to ask me if everything was fine. I finally get to relax after so much attention and I wonder how Oliver is doing. After 30 minutes he appears clean, warm and relaxed and giving many thanks to all at the baths.
We continue along the coast towards Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city,the landscape reminds me of Catalonia with the cliffs and the beach below and towns dotted in between. In one town we pass, Kavala, there is a large fourteenth century Turkish aqueduct, reminiscent of Segovia. There is always something to remind you of home.
The rain and fog continue and after a long day driving we park up next to the Archaeological Museum of Amphipolis, as it is already night we have no choice but to spend the night, but we have an unexpected visit, the police. Seeing them coming, we hide the substances and Oliver starts to play guitar. They ask for our passports and ask us questions in Greek, but since we don’t understand they get frustrated and leave.
It’s another good technique for not being hassled too much!
The next day we wake up ready to go and discover Athos (a mountainous peninsula containing many Orthodox monasteries). When we get to the "border" we realize that only men are allowed to go and see the monasteries and that they must go by boat after asking permission in advance. Maybe our research wasn’t good but Icurse these religious bastards for their sexism and we continue on towards Thessaloniki.
We arrive in Thessaloniki on the 24th of October. It is a city of culture, fun and colour with symbols that reflect the great history of the city. These include the famous White Tower from which cafes and bars stretch along the seafront, many other Ottoman structures, legendary Byzantine ruins, and as you move uphill you find the neighbourhood of colourful houses, narrow winding streets along with a fortress and ancient churches. All this plus the 3rd Century Roman ruins of the palace of the Emperor Galerius.
The newer areas of the town are full of bars and restaurants and it is fun to explore the markets with all their colours and smells. The trays of spices and nuts definitely show the Eastern influence. But the city has a problem, pedestrians are not respected and crossing the road is a Herculean task fraught with danger. In one of the churches we visit we find a friendly monk who asks theusual questions asked of foreigners until he touches on the dangerous ground of religion. He wonders if we are Catholics or Protestants and our answer that we are atheists is met with a surprised smile and gentle blow on Oliver’s head with a rolled-up newspaper and the jokey admonishment “naughty boy”.
After discovering Thessaloniki we get lost on the mountain roads heading south, without a compass or decent maps Mount Olympus (2918 m) is our guiding landmark. We pass the night in high farm country next to a livestock drinking troughwhich serves as a means of washing ourselves, our clothes and the van, with only a short interruption as a flock of sheep and few sheepdogs stop to quench their thirst as the shepard looks on.
The mountains take us on to the oracle of Delphi. On this sunny and clear day we can see the Peloponnesestretching far south into the Mediterranean. The oracle is situated in a valley between two rocky mountains wich continues down into miles of olive trees which carpet the flat land as it continues on to the sea. In this unique landscape we breathe clean air and feeling of tranquility and contentedness washes over us.
We leave this beautiful scene as the sun sets, and as we arrive at the nearby coast we stop in the village of Argia Spiridion, a handful of houses right next to the sea. The main road is right alongside the water and when the sea is rough the waves must crash right into the cars. It seems that doesn’t happen very often though as this is one of the calmest and clearest seas we have ever seen. That evening I need to Skype home and I go to the only open cafe. As I open the door and enter I am meet with the surprised look of the village’s inhabitants, “A foreigner!”.
At 7 am the church bells ring and wake us. They ring again at 9 and men and women in black file in for mass. We leave the religious ceremony behind and head for the huge new suspension bridge that will take us across this calm stretch of water to the Peloponnese peninsula. There is a great view and we make the most of it, a wise decision considering the 13 euro toll!
The thermal baths are very basic and provided for the local villagers. They are separated into mens and womens baths. I go to the thermal bath with my bathing suit on (no nudity, we are strictly told!) to find a 60 year old woman in there. On realising I am not Greek she makes hand signals for a whie but I don’t understand. Although after showing me a clock it becomes clear that she means that there is a 30 minute time limit. The receptionist comes in a few times to ask me if everything was fine. I finally get to relax after so much attention and I wonder how Oliver is doing. After 30 minutes he appears clean, warm and relaxed and giving many thanks to all at the baths.
We continue along the coast towards Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city,the landscape reminds me of Catalonia with the cliffs and the beach below and towns dotted in between. In one town we pass, Kavala, there is a large fourteenth century Turkish aqueduct, reminiscent of Segovia. There is always something to remind you of home.
The rain and fog continue and after a long day driving we park up next to the Archaeological Museum of Amphipolis, as it is already night we have no choice but to spend the night, but we have an unexpected visit, the police. Seeing them coming, we hide the substances and Oliver starts to play guitar. They ask for our passports and ask us questions in Greek, but since we don’t understand they get frustrated and leave.
It’s another good technique for not being hassled too much!
The next day we wake up ready to go and discover Athos (a mountainous peninsula containing many Orthodox monasteries). When we get to the "border" we realize that only men are allowed to go and see the monasteries and that they must go by boat after asking permission in advance. Maybe our research wasn’t good but Icurse these religious bastards for their sexism and we continue on towards Thessaloniki.
We arrive in Thessaloniki on the 24th of October. It is a city of culture, fun and colour with symbols that reflect the great history of the city. These include the famous White Tower from which cafes and bars stretch along the seafront, many other Ottoman structures, legendary Byzantine ruins, and as you move uphill you find the neighbourhood of colourful houses, narrow winding streets along with a fortress and ancient churches. All this plus the 3rd Century Roman ruins of the palace of the Emperor Galerius.
The newer areas of the town are full of bars and restaurants and it is fun to explore the markets with all their colours and smells. The trays of spices and nuts definitely show the Eastern influence. But the city has a problem, pedestrians are not respected and crossing the road is a Herculean task fraught with danger. In one of the churches we visit we find a friendly monk who asks theusual questions asked of foreigners until he touches on the dangerous ground of religion. He wonders if we are Catholics or Protestants and our answer that we are atheists is met with a surprised smile and gentle blow on Oliver’s head with a rolled-up newspaper and the jokey admonishment “naughty boy”.
After discovering Thessaloniki we get lost on the mountain roads heading south, without a compass or decent maps Mount Olympus (2918 m) is our guiding landmark. We pass the night in high farm country next to a livestock drinking troughwhich serves as a means of washing ourselves, our clothes and the van, with only a short interruption as a flock of sheep and few sheepdogs stop to quench their thirst as the shepard looks on.
The mountains take us on to the oracle of Delphi. On this sunny and clear day we can see the Peloponnesestretching far south into the Mediterranean. The oracle is situated in a valley between two rocky mountains wich continues down into miles of olive trees which carpet the flat land as it continues on to the sea. In this unique landscape we breathe clean air and feeling of tranquility and contentedness washes over us.
We leave this beautiful scene as the sun sets, and as we arrive at the nearby coast we stop in the village of Argia Spiridion, a handful of houses right next to the sea. The main road is right alongside the water and when the sea is rough the waves must crash right into the cars. It seems that doesn’t happen very often though as this is one of the calmest and clearest seas we have ever seen. That evening I need to Skype home and I go to the only open cafe. As I open the door and enter I am meet with the surprised look of the village’s inhabitants, “A foreigner!”.
At 7 am the church bells ring and wake us. They ring again at 9 and men and women in black file in for mass. We leave the religious ceremony behind and head for the huge new suspension bridge that will take us across this calm stretch of water to the Peloponnese peninsula. There is a great view and we make the most of it, a wise decision considering the 13 euro toll!
